The amount of TV time devoted to animals, the numbers watching funny cat videos on YouTube, concerns about the preservation of endangered species and the growing tendency to anthropomorphise dogs. The animal kingdom has always been universally represented in jewellery, and is currently enjoying a welcome revival.
Collector Square is a website that offers a wide luxury jewellery catalogue of over 2,000 secondhand pieces, from unique and daring items by Rene Boivin to iconic collections from Cartier and Hermes. This month sees their themed sale of more than 30 pieces of animal related jewellery, from 14-28 June.
Constance Lauvinerie, head of the jewellery department says: “It has been challenging to gather rare, sought after pieces of bestiary jewellery that are timeless and completely related to each luxury jewellery brand, and each period’s design and techniques. Buyers today are looking for jewellery that is playful, eccentric or embodies a meaning.”
The treasures on sale include an extravagant lion brooch-pendant by Van Cleef & Arpels, the head worked in the form of a rose, the features detailed in twisted gold, with chrysoprases and onyx, classic ornamental stones of the time. An amusing mouse brooch, with prominent whiskers composed of yellow gold, chrysoprase and a ruby, is a typical work of 1950s British ingenuity. There is a 1960s bird brooch in yellow gold, chalcedony, amethyst and diamond, and from the 1980s a delightful panther brooch by Fred in yellow gold and enamel, and a hedgehog brooch in yellow gold with black sapphire eyes. (www.collectorsquare.com)
Tessa Packard, the fine jewellery brand launched in 2013, has become internationally recognised for its individuality and storytelling collections. The Lost and Found collection is inspired by Victorian curiosity cabinets, the work of artist Joseph Cornell (his shadow boxes and found objects) and the designer’s own love of collecting and taxidermy. The natural world is a central influence, and new additions to the collection include Forest Fawn, Chickadee, Dicky Bird, Fruit Bat, Mr Pig and So Foxy earrings. There are also elegant opera length necklaces, weighty cocktail rings and chain link cufflinks in gold with gemstones and porcelain. The Fruit Bat earrings are in hand-carved bone, watermelon tourmaline, enamel and 18c gold (www.tessapackard.com)